Boot or shoe and method of making the same



April 30, 1929. J, w, MAY 1,710,936

` BOOT OR SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING 'frm SAME Filed NOV. 5, 1925 4Sheets-Shea? l l l lnvenor. 'John W. May

. Ays.

April 3o, 1929. J W, MAY 1,710,936

BOOT OR SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Nov. f5. 1925 4sheets-sheet 42 z lnvenfor. John W. Muy

April 3o, 1929. J; W, MAYy 1,710,936

BOOT OR SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAMEw Filed Nov. 5, 1925 4sheets-sheet 3 lnvemor.`

y dohn VV. Muy

bwa/@MIM l' v Ays.

April 3 0, 1929. 1w. MAY 1,710,936

BOOT OR SHOE AND N IETHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Nov. 5, 1925 4Sheets-'Sheet 4 Fig. 13.

lnvenTon John W. Moy

Patented Apr. 30, 1929.

UNITED STATES..

PA'rlezrr OFFICE.l

JOHN WALTER MAY, OE BOSTON, MAssAcIIUsETTSp/ASSIGNOR To UNITED SHOEMACHINERY CORPORATION, or PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION or NEW JEBSEY.

BOOT OR SHOE AND METHOD or MAKING THE SAME.

Application led November 43, 1925. Serial NO.'66,55B.

This invention relates to a boot or shoe in which the insoleisfrspecially constructed to give support to the arch ot the toot, andalso to a novel method of making such a boot or shoe.

In a boot or shoe embodying my invention the insole is shaped so that itpresents on its' upper face a convex arch-supporting portion;

the arch-supporting shape being Asecured by 1o the shape given to theinsole rather than by the introduction of a pad beneath the insole.

One Way of securing this desired shape to the insole is by moulding theinsole so that it will present a hump or upwardly bent portion at thepoint where the support is to be given to the arch of the foot and`thisshape is preserved in the completed shoe after it is manuactured bythe Way in which the insole is incorporated in the shoe.

In carrying out myginvention I first take an insole blank before it istrimmed to shape and subject it to the action of a die by which theportion thereof which is to constitute.r the sup ort for the arch of thefoot is deformed by eing bent upwardly. After theinsole has been thustreated it is placed Von a pattern which forms the gauge for the purposeof trimming the insole to shape said pattern having an opening or recessof a size correspending to the deformed portion of the in. sole so thatwhen the insole ,is placed on the pattern for the purpose of beingtrimmed the deformed portion co-operates with the recess to position theinsole properly .with reference 3 to the pattern. After the insole hasbeen trimmed to the shape of the pattern then said insole may beincorporated in the shoe and the shoe when completed will have an arch-4supporting portion produced by the shape element. l i

The arch support made in accordance with my invention not only gives theproper supportpto the arch of the' foot but itis fiexible and yieldingowing to the manner in which row sh in dotted lines t e position of thearch'supgiven to the vinsole and Without lthe intro-wduction into theshoe of any pad or similarv the manufacture of ladies shoes with arelativelynarrow shank where it is desired to place the 1n'ch supportingfeature in the naran v In order'to give an understanding of theinvention I have illustrated in the drawings some embodiments thereofandsome methods by which the process maybe carried out.

Fig. 1 is a bottom plan View of a shoe having my arch-sup orting featureand showing port;

' Fig. 2 is a section on the line 2 2, Fig. 1; Fig. 3 is a view of theinsole blank after it has been deformed to make the arch-supportingportion; j y

Fig. 4 is a section on the line 4 4, Fig. 3;

5`is a section on the line 5 5, Fig. 3;

Fig. 6 is a perspective view of the pattern which is used for trimmingthe insole;

Fig. 7 illustrates the method of trimming the insole blank to the propershape; y Flg. 8 is a section. on the line 8 8, Fig. 7; Fig. 9illustrates an insole embodying nilly invention and designed for use ina welt s oe;

Fig. 10 is a section on the .line 10 10,

vinvvhich the outsole is attached;

Fig. 15 is a section on the line 15 15, Fig. 14.

Referring first to Figs. 1 and 2 which show a welt shoe embodying'myinvention, 1 indicates the upper of the shoe, 2 the insole and 3 theOutsole. I

The -insole is formed at the proper point with an arch-supportingportion 4 which may have any desired shape or location in the shoe. i

In the embodiment shown this arch-supporting portion 4 has the shapeshown'by the dotted lines in Fig. land is located in the shank of theshoe directly back of the ball thereof. The arch-sup Orting portion 4isl wider at its forward en than at the rear end and the sides 5lthereof follow in general the ylines ofthe sides of the sole at thispoint.

In the direction longitudinally of the insole the arch-supportingportion 4 has a relatively-short front face 50 and a relatively longrear face 51, the front face 50 having a greater angle to the plane ofthe sole than the rear face 51. This brings the highest part of thearch-supporting portion toward the front thereof. The particular shapeor outline of the arch-supporting portion, how'- ever, is not anessential feature ofthe invention and may be varied as desired. g Thisarch-supporting portion 4 is formed by deforming the insole so thatwithin the outline indicated by the dotted lines Fig. l

the insole has a convexly-curved upper sur- Aface 6 and aconcavely-cui'ved under surface I 7 thus producing the pocket 8 beneaththe A suitable way as by placing the insole between arch-supportingportion. This arch-supporting shape 4 can be formed 1n the insole 1n anymale and female dies which deformthe portien of the insole and give itthe shape shown in Figs. 1 and 2. When theinsole is .incorporated in theshoe the arch-supporting portion 4 retains its shape partly by thestrength of the leather and partly by the Way i element in the pocket 8.

the shoe is made and Without the introductionofany pad or other similarsupportlng In carrying out my invention I propose to form the insolewith the arch-supportlngportion While the latter is still in the form ofan insole blank and before it is trimmed to shape.

Suchan insole blank is shown at 9 in Fig. 3' and it is larger than theinsole, as such -blanks usually are. This insole blank is treated so asto produce an arch-.supporting portion 4 therein as above described andWhen it has been so treated it Will have the 4shape shown in Figs. 3, 4and 5,v the central portion of the blank being deformed and given theconcavoconvex shape.

' After the insole blank has been thus formed it is then rounded ortrimmed to the proper shape by the use of a pattern 10 such as isusually used for this purpose except that the pattern- I propose to useis provided with a recess 11'of a shape corresponding tothe shape of thearch-supporting portion 4 which has y been formed in the insole blank 9.This recess 11 co-operates with the arch-supporting portion 4 toposition properly the insole blank on the pattern durnig the roundingror trimming operation so that said arch-supporting portion is alwaysproperly placed relative to the outline of the insole.

Totrim the insole blank-it is placed on the pattern with the convex face6 of the archsupporting portion 4 fitting into the recess 11 as shown inFigs. 7 and 8l and While the insole blank is held inthis position it isrounded or trimmed to the shape of the pattern, as

shown in full lines Fig. 7 the dotted lines in said figure illustratingthe original shape of the insole blank. By means of this operation aninsole is produced in which the archsupporting portion 4 always has thecorrect position relative to the outline of the insole.

After the insole has thus been shaped I apply to the under face thereofa reinforcing member 53 of canvas, duck or similar material, 'thepurpose of which isnto retain the shape given to the insole and toprevent the arch-supporting portion from flattening out due to aspreading of the insole at this point. This reinforcing member 53 mayconveniently be cemented to the insole or secured thereto in anyappropriate way. Said reinforcing member spans the concave face of thearchsupporting portion and helps to retain the shape given to theinsole.

This reinforcing member 53 may be applied to the insole either before orafter it is trimmed. In Fig. 9 I have illustrated the shape and positionof the reinforcing member in dotted lines and in Fig. 1() it is alsoshown spanning the cancave face of the archsupporting portion.

When the insole has thus been deformed and reinforced it is thenincorporated into the shoe. The exact procedure of thus incorporatingthe insole into the shoe will vary according to the style or characterof the shoe,

' the steps employed in the case of a Welt shoe being somewhat differentfrom those employed. in the case of a McKay sewed shoe.

In the case of a welt shoe one way of proceeding is illustrated in'Figs.9 to 12 inclusive. The insole 2, after it has had thearch-supporting'portion 4 formed herein, is channeled around the toeportion only to form the in-seam-receiving lip 12. The chanof the latterand .up against the lip, as shown at 14, and is temporarily tacked tothe last by the tacks l5. At the heel of the shoe the edge of the upperis pulled over the insole and tacked in the usual manner, as shown Alongthe shank portion of the shoe the lasting is done by pulling the edge 17of the upper over the insole and tacking said upper to the insole bytacks 18. If desired, I may have the last at the shank portion providedwith a metal face so that when the tacks 18 are driven they will beclinched over as shown in Fig. 2. After the shoe has thus been lasted.the Welt 19 is sewed to the lip 12 as usual by means of the in-seamstitches 20. The welt, however, extends only throughout the length ofthe li 12, that is, around the toe of the shoe and bac to about the ballof the foot. At the shank. of the shoe and overlying the archisupporting portion 4 I place a reinforcing piece of leather 21 whichextends from the rear of the lip 12 and welt 19 back to the heelportion. This reinforcing leather piece 21 is wider than the shank ofthe shoe so that it projects beyond the insole at each edge as shown at22 and it is secured to the insole by suitable fastenings which extendthrough thel edge of the upper. lVhile any suitable fastening device maybe employed I will preferably unit-e the insole and reinforcing piece 21by. means of stitches 23. These stitches may be inserted by hand or inany appropriate way and they extend from the rear of the in-seamstitches 20 back to the heel. The reinforcing piece 21 is wider than theinsole and the projecting edge 22 forms in effect a .continuation of theWelt and provides an edge to which the outsole 3 may be sewed at theshank of the shoe. After the shoe has reached the condition shown inFig. 12 it may be finished by the usual stepsor operations employed inmaking Welt shoes, one of which is the sewing of the outsole 3 to theWelt and to the edge 22 of the reinforcin piece 21 by means of the usualstitches 54. he shoe when completed will ,have the insole at the shankportion arched upwardly to form the arch-supporting portion 4 which isflexible and somewhat resilient.

Since the insole issecurely fastened atboth edges to both thereinforcing members 53 and 21, said members assist in preserving thearch. shape of -the insole-supporting portion 44 and prevent Vsaidportion from. flattening down due to spreading of the insole at thispoint. The arch-supporting portion 4 and the members 21 and 53 form atrue arch, the members 21 and 53 constituting the tension element of thearch' and the portion 4 the compression element. The 'shape' of thearch- A supporti portion 4 is thus preserved partly by the i`herentstrength in the leather of the insole, partly by the action of thereinforcing members 21 and 53 in preventing the insole from spreadin andpartly by the body of air which is con ned in the cavity 8. Vhere themember 53 is cemented to the bottom of the insole a substantially tightjoint will be produced between the insole and the member 21 thus givingto thearch-supporting portion 4 somewhat the characteristic of apneumatic pocket.

An arch support .having this construction is iexible because of theabsence of a relatively nonyielding pad beneath it and is thuscomfortable to wear. It is also more or less resilient and it has thecapacity of conforming to the shape of the individual foot. While thefeet of every person'have the same general characteristics yet eachindividual foot varies portion embod ing this invention has theadvantage that ecause of its flexibility and elasticity it will conformto the shape of the foot instead of compelling the foot to conform toits shape.

In the case of a McKay sewed shoe the process of incorporating theinsole in the shoe is slightly different.

The insole itself is made 'in the manner above recited, .except that itis not provided with the inseam-receiving lip 12. A Mc- Kay-sewed shoewill be lasted in usual manner by placing the insole on the bottom ofthe last and pulling the edge 24 of the upper over the edge of theinsole and tacking the upper to the insole by tacks 25 all as usual. Itwill be understood, of course, that t-he last will be formed with apocket of a shape and properly positioned to receive the convex faceofthe arch-supporting port-ion 4. The

outsole 26 is then placed in position-and the v the shank the outsole issewed. to the insole by Vstitches being yindicated at 28 and extendinghand instead of by machine, the hand-made from) the lpoint 29 on eachside of the shoe f ,back to the heel. The reason for hand sewing theshank portion of the outsole to the insole is that in the case of anarrow shank shoe, such as shown in the drawings, there is not room oneither side of the arch-supporting` portion 4 to accommodate the horn ofthe McKay machine which is introduced into the shoe and if the stitches28 were made bythe McKay machine the horn would tend tol break down thearch-supporting portion of the shoe. In the McKay-sewed shoe the archedshape of the arch-supporting portion 4 is preserved partly by thereinforcing layer 53and partly by the outsole.

' In both embodiments of my invention the arch-supporting portion isformed by deforming the insole and not by the introduction of a pad orother element beneath the insole. The strength of the arch-supportingportion 4 is due to the strength of the insole and the wa it isincorporated into the shoe.

While I ave illustrated some selected ein bodiments of the invention 'Ido. not wish to be limited to the constructional features /shown.

I claim: L

1. A shoe having an insole forming apermanent part thereof and shaped topresent an arched arch-supporting portion, the edges of said insole oneither side of the arch-supporting portion being permanently secured toa part of the shoe which spans the concave :tace of said arch-supportingportion, said face being unsupported.

2. A shoe having an insole forming a permanent part thereof and shapedto present an arched arch-supporting portion, the edges of said insoleon either side of the arch-*supi porting portions beine permanentlysecured to a part of the shoe vv ich spans the concave face of saidarch-supporting portion, said face being unsupported, and said part ofthe shoe by its permanent attachment to the insble serving to hold thearch-supporting portion in its arched shape.

3. The steps in the method of making a shoe which consists in molding aninsole to pro- 4. The method of making an insole for a shoe having anarch-supporting ortion which conslsts 1n molding an insole b ank toproduce therein a concave-convex arch-sup' porting portion, superposingsaid blank on an insole pattern which has a recess to reeeive thearch-supporting portion and then trimming the insole blank to the shapeof the pattern.

5. A shoe having an insole forming a permanent part thereof and shapedto present an arched arch-supporting portion, a reinforcing layeroffabric cemented to the under a'ce of the insole and spanning theconcave face of thearcli-supporting portion, said face beingunsupported.

6. The steps 1n the method of making` a i shoe which consists in moldingan insole to produce in the latter a concavo-convex archsupportingportion, cementing to the under face of the insole a fabric layer whichspans the concave face of said arch-sup orting portion, andincorporating the inso e in a shoe as a permanent part thereof.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification.

JOHN WALTER MAY.

